Places, Earth
Texas Eclipse 2024
Texas Eclipse 2024
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Places, Earth
Texas Eclipse 2024 |
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I had been planning this trip since the total solar eclipse of 2017. Despite a bad year in which I
worked little because of labor disputes, I couldn't reschedule the eclipse, so I scraped some
money together and began a road trip to San Antonio, Texas where I hoped to find clear skies.
Again my wife decided to stay home, so it was just Isabel and me, Isabel is my 2016 Mustang. I
hated leaving my kittens, but this was my last chance to see a total eclipse. To make sure it wasn't
a wasted trip if I found clouded skies, I included lots of sight seeing along the way. I wasn't
working anyway, so off I went. Day One: I Forgot How Far Tucson Is. I hugged my wife, kissed the cats, and headed east. It was just Isabel, Douglas Adams, and me. I caught Interstate 10 in Redlands and followed it east to deep in heart of Texas. I stopped at a rest area near Yucaipa and continued east. The second rest area was closed, but I stopped at Wiley's Well Rest Area. I crossed into Arizona, stopped at Bouse Rest Area, took a 5 minute nap at Burnt Well rest area, and got gas at Tonopah. Traffic was bad in Phoenix and I realized I that I should have taken the bypass. A little south of Phoenix in Pinal County, I stopped at a rest area and noted a plaque on Gadsden Purchase where the United States bought territory from Mexico allowing routes between east and west that went around the Rocky Mountains, which end just north of here. I finished The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy and started Tom Sawyer. Many years earlier, we visited San Xavier del Bac Mission, founded in1692, and toured the interior. Then, one of the bell towers had been recently restored and the other tower was well aged. Today the Mission had been closed an hour, but I was able to photograph the towers, both restored. Then Map Quest took me the long way around to a hotel next to the highway off-ramp six miles ahead. I settled in for the evening. Day Two, Three Missions I slept well, awoke a little late, and scrambled to get on my way. I got off an hour late and right off hit traffic going through Tucson. I saw a sign for Colossal Cave, something I hope to see some day and The Thing, maybe if I have time next time. I made a quick stop at Texas Canyon Rest Area and read the marker for Council Rocks, a peace treaty between General O. O. Howard and Cochise, Chief of the Chiricahua Apache. I stopped at San Simon Rest Area. Five minutes later I was in New Mexico. The asphalt was noticeably rougher. Signs along the road said, "If dust storm, Pull off roadway, Foot off breaks, Stay buckled." I finished Tom Sawyer and started the Adventures of Huckleberry Finn. I got gas in Lordsburg, crossed the Continental Divide and stopped at Scenic View Rest Area overlooking Las Cruces. A few minutes later, I entered Texas, hit heavy traffic in El Paso, and finally arrived at my first stop. There are three Missions in or just south of El Paso, the northern most, and first established of the three, is Misión de Corpus Christi de Ysleta del Sur, established in 1682, one of three Missions that I've seen that claim to be the first Mission in Texas. I photographed this mission about half an hour and moved to the second, Nuestra Señora de la Concepción del Socorro, founded 1682. This was the only one of the three for which I did not see the interior. The final stop was San Elizario Presidio Chapel, 1788. I photographed this chapel also. I had been wanting to see these three for a long time. It was only about 15 minutes to my hotel where I settled in for the night. Day Three: A Mission Marker, a Fort, and Big Bend I slept well, watched the sunrise from my room as I got ready, ate, packed, and checked out. I got off at 7:20 am heading south on I-10. I received a text from Verizon welcoming me to Mexico and telling me about roaming charges. I was close to the border, but still in the U. S. I set the phone to Airplane mode for the next half hour. I got gas in Sierra Blanca and continued south to Van Horn where I exited I-10. I turned onto US-90 and continued south for a long hour. In this wide open country, the 75 MPH speed limit seemed slow. I was thoughtful driving through Valentine, composed mostly of crumbling old buildings. At Marfa, I was about to turn right onto US-67 when I glanced left and saw a beautiful courthouse a few blocks north. I had to get a photograph before turning around and heading south on US-67. At Presidio, I turned west and drove about ten miles on 170 and easily found my objective, the approximate site of Mission San Francisco de los Julimes, 1682. There is a marker in the side of the road and about 200 feet beyond is Ochoa Cemetery, a small site only a few dozen feet square. I took a few photographs and headed back to town. It took only five minutes to reach my next stop. I was hoping to see the marker for Mission del Apostol Santiago, 1683-1684, next to Fort Leaton State Historic Park. Unfortunately, I was told the marker had been removed because no one was sure where the Mission had actually been. This is reported to be one of nine Missions in the area, where are the rest? I toured the fort for a hour and proceeded, a little disappointed. I followed Highway 170 as it wove in and out of Big Bend Ranch State Park, stopping frequently to photograph scenery. Several times I was able to photograph the Rio Grande, got within 50 feet of the border running down the center of the river, and one stop was a film set from Streets of Laredo, my guess it was a cantina set. I stopped at Barton Warnock Visitor Center with exhibits on the park. I entered Big Bend National Park and turned down Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. I stopped many times to photograph the scenery. I stoppled at Castolon Visitor Center and at Desert Mountain Overlook. Finally I reached the end of the road and the rest of the loop was a dirt road that I didn't think my car would like, so I turned around and returned the way I came. The next morning, as I drove past the other end of the road that I didn't take, I noticed a sign saying "Four wheel drive only." Back in Terlingua, I tried to get gas but there was a long line, then tried to find my lodging, but I couldn't. In desperation I asked directions at another lodging. The man said "You're there, they changed the name." Thanks. I checked in, got gas, by now there was no line, and found my room. It was an old fashion motel and I parked just feet from the door to my room which had a fun Interior Design. I Settled in for a well deserved sleep. I had driven 330 miles since leaving I-10. Day Four: Landscape and Markers I left about 7:30 and entered the National Park again. It was still dark and no one was at the entrance station. I stopped a few times to take photographs in the early morning light. I made a side trip to Chisos Basin, which was a scenic drive, but the Visitor Center wasn't open yet. It is the caldera of a long dead volcano with high walls surrounding. The return drive was also scenic. Next I continued on to Panther Junction, about the center of the park, where the Visitor Center was open. I looked around a little and continued on to Rio Grande Village. It was another twenty mile scenic route and I stopped several times. A deer ran across the road. The distant mountains were layered in the haze. The landscape was much flatter than the two side roads I had already taken. At Rio Grande Village I finally was able to check in at one of the several Visitor Centers in the park and got directions to Bosquillas Canyon Overlook. On the way I stopped at an actual border crossing, a small building for pedestrians crossing the border. Bosquillas Canyon Overlook is a bluff overlooking the river and Mexico. It was a wide expanse and directly across were two canoes and after a while, a man on a horse with two dogs. A town sat on a hill on the other side of the river. I returned the way I had come. One last stop at Panther Junction and I was heading out. I made a quick stop at Fossil Discovery Exhibit. There is an exhibit building and a trail to a rise. It was here that many fossils of prehistoric marine life were found. About sixteen million years ago, this spot was the shore of a large ocean that covered most of the Midwest from what is now the Gulf of Mexico to the Arctic Ocean. From here it was almost an hour more before I left the park, it is a little large. I traveled north on Highway 385 for an hour and a half, finally rejoining Interstate 10 at Fort Stockton, 120 miles east of Van Horn where I left it the day before. I exited Interstate 10 again about 150 miles later at Sonora. I got gas and traveled south on Highway 277 about twenty miles and then joined State Highway 55 and followed it south about one hundred miles to Uvalde. The reason for this section of the trip was to see two Mission sites. My sightseeing was not limited to the two Missions. I stopped several times to photograph other historic markers and also the Courthouse in Rock Springs, the county seat for Edwards County. In Real County, on the north side of Camp Woods, I found the ruins for Mission San Lorenzo de La Santa Cruz, founded in 1762. There isn't much there, a few stone foundations on a site about an acre in size, with a few information labels. As little as there is, most of the other Mission markers I would see on this trip are just "Near this spot..." About fifteen minutes later, in Uvalde County, I stopped at four markers, two of which were for Mission Nuestra Senora de la Candelaria, founded February 1762, which had been "...located near this location..."I continued south to join US-90 in Uvalde. It took a while to follow US-90 through several smaller town leading to San Antonio. I finished Adventures of Huckleberry Finn a few minutes before arriving at my hotel. Eventually I found my hotel, checked in, bought some groceries, and settled in for the night. Day Five: Corpus Christi. I awoke early, got ready, and waited for breakfast. About 7:30, I left for Corpus Christi. Mapquest told me to exit, turn left and right a few times and get back on I-37. I had no problem stying on I-37. A quick stop at Live Oak County Rest Area. As I traveled east, there was a large wind farm on the north side of I-37. Later, more wind turbines spread out on both sides, slowly spinning at about 12 RPM. As I drove along the edge of the harbor, I observed a long row of railroad flatcars with three cars under each of dozens of wind turbine blades. Texas is no longer exclusively an oil energy state. I arrived at the USS Lexington Museum. Lexington was a WWII aircraft carrier, now a floating museum. I started on the hangar deck with many exhibits. Then to the forecastle with the giant anchor chains. Next on to the flight deck with several side trips and the Island, along with about two dozen aircraft. It was quite windy and I thought of all those wind turbines I saw a few hours earlier. Looking out, I knew there were barrier islands out there somewhere, but I couldn't see them. I was a bit tired by the time I got back to the hangar deck, then remembered there is a lower decks tour which took another hour, and climbing up and down the ships ladders was further tiring. Finally I felt that I had seen everything so I dragged myself back to the car. While looking for the Downtown Seawall, I passed the Corpus Christi Museum of Science and History. I had considered visiting this museum, but didn't expect to have time. I spent about two hours here and consider it to be a very nice, well done, museum. Exhibits included rocks and minerals, fossils, artifacts from sunken ships, historic objects, art, wildlife and nature, and galleries specifically for children. I finally found the Downtown Seawall and the Selena Memorial Statue, a tribute to the promising young singer, Selena Quintanilla, who was murdered at age 23. A few more photographs and I was off to North Padre Island. I considered Mustang Island State Park but chose Beach Access 3 where I parked my Mustang on the beach, took lots of photographs, and dipped a finger in the Gulf of Mexico. I took a few photographs and headed back to San Antonio. I stopped at Live Oak County Rest Area, west bound. Back in San Antonio, I settled in for the night and took care of several loose ends. Day Six: LBJ and Missions I arose, got ready, ate, and left for Mission San Jose. I had one stop first, Mission San Francisco Xavier de Najera, founded 1722. Many people visiting San Antonio know about the four Missions along the river, some even know that the Alamo was a Mission, but most don't know that there was a sixth Mission. Today all that is available to see of this sixth Mission is a marker beside a golf course. It was still early and the marker is under a tree, so I pulled out my tripod and photographed the marker. It was only five or ten minutes to Mission San Jose, founded February 23, 1720. I was forty-five minutes early for Mass so I photographed some of the details of the Mission buildings. The Mission is built of stone and the interior of the church was decorated. I had been here many years earlier. I returned to my room and got ready for the rest of the day. On the way to Austin, I tried to find Mission Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe, 1756, in Landa Park near Gazebo Circle, but after three laps through the parking lot unable to find a space to park or see a marker from the car, I gave up and moved on. Despite closed roads that were not in the Mapquest or Maps on the phone, I found the LBJ Presidential Library. For about two hours I wandered the third, fourth, and tenth floors. The fifth through ninth floors are the archives easily seen through glass walls from the third floor. There was a letter from the Smothers Brothers apologizing for their harsh jokes which I found interesting. The tenth floor had many small exhibits and was a bit more crowed than the lower floors. Next I headed about an hour northeast looking for more Mission markers. They are far off major highways in rural farmland. I wasn't sure that I would find them, but felt better when I drove along the road and signs proclaimed it as El Camino Real and there were signs pointing at the markers. I was able to find three markers: Mission Nuestra Senora de la Candelaria, 1749, Mission San Francisco Xavier de los Dolores, February 1748, and Mission San Ildefonso, extablished February 25, 1749. Just a few hundred feet east of Apache Pass Steakhouse & Icehouse, I drove a dirt road over a narrow one-lane bridge and then for several miles because there was reportedly another location for Mission Nuestra Senora de la Candelaria about a mile down, but after several miles I found nothing and turned around. Visiting the marker for Mission Nuestra Senora de la Candelaria, 1749, took longer than I had planned as I was attacked by a very large, very friendly, dog who must have been lonely. She (I think it was a she) kept jumping on me, knocking thing out of my hands, knocking off my glasses, scratching my car, and tried to climb inside. I had to play with her about ten minutes before I was allowed to get back in my car. Mission San Francisco Xavier de los Dolores, 1748, was easily found beside the road with a sign pointing at it. Like the others, it was near the entrance to a ranch with open fields beyond. Mission San Ildefonso, 1749, on a side road was also near the entrance to a ranch although a little less open. Somewhere around Taylor, I noticed a very large Samsung plant under construction. I've never seen so many construction cranes in one place. I'm told that many companies are building distribution centers here because of cheap land. I wanted to stand on Congress Bridge and watch the bats flying out, but it would have been 11:00 PM before I got back to San Antonio and don't like driving far at night. Later my brother, who by coincidence was also in the area for the eclipse, told me that they did wait, but didn't see the bats. I got gas and retired to my room Day Seven: Eclipse I left for the eclipse site about 6:45 heading west on I-10 about 50 miles, then US-87 north to Fredericksburg and parked at Ladybird Johnson Municipal Park. For the first time in a long time, I had time to relax as I waited four hours for the eclipse. It was clear and I walked around most of the park, which is quite large. A small dam creates an 'L' shaped lake with the golf course on the other side. First contact was at 12:15. The clouds moved in and out. As second contact approached, the clouds got thicker. Totality lasted four minutes and twenty-eight seconds (1:32 to 1:37) and for about 5 seconds the Corona peaked through the clouds. Still the magic of darkness roaring in and the light rushing back, was worth it. It feels like the first twenty minutes of sunset compressed into five seconds. It's not total darkness, but there is a 360 degree sunset at the horizon. There probably won't be another chance in my lifetime, but if modern medicine comes through, I will try again. There wasn't much point staying for fourth contact at 2:56, so I packed up and started back to San Antonio. As I expected, there was a traffic jam most of the fifty-miles back to my hotel. It started to rain and I remembered reading that the Go*Rio San Antonio River Cruises don't operate in rain, so I made a quick call to verify they were running, they were, so off I ran. I didn't have too much trouble finding parking, but it took a few extra flights of stairs before I was on the correct side of the river. I finally got my ticket, got on the boat, and we departed. The thirty minute cruse sails through the main river and all the waterways that make up River Walk. The major part of River Walk is a U off of the main river, but there is also a long channel off the middle leading to the River Center Mall. River Walk is lined with many restaurants, bars, and shops. There are lots of stairs and bridges. After the cruise, I walked the circle and trudged back to the car. I settled in for the evening and started getting ready to start my trip home the following morning. Day Eight: I arose, got ready, packed, ate, checked out, and loaded. I left at 7:15 heading north to New Braunfels and Landa Park to try again to find Mission Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe, established 1756, near Gazebo Circle. There were only two or three cars in the parking lot, so parking was easier than last Sunday. I guessed where the marker might be and crossed a small footbridge to a path along a stream. I started to the left and within a few minutes, found the marker. It was still dark so I set up my tripod and photographed the marker. A last restroom stop and I was finally heading home. It started to rain lightly as I drove away. I was a little north of my originally planed route, so I cut across to Interstate 10 on an old farm road. The rain increased. Finally, 10:00 AM, almost three hours after leaving San Antonio, I was on Interstate 10, thirty miles west of San Antonio. I stopped at a rest area east of Kerrville, not expecting to see another for two days. I originally planned to see the eclipse from Kerrville, but parking was limited, it turns out the sky was clear there. I got gas in Junction and turneded north on US 83. About three miles east of Menard, on Farm to Market Road 2092 (East San Saba Avenue), is the marker for Mission Santa Cruz de San Saba, founded 1757. I photographed the marker and returned to town to find the Presidio. Presidio San Saba, founded 1757, is on Highway US 190 about two miles west of Menard. The Presidio is mostly the remains of a stone wall, about waist-high, enclosing a large yard, a rampart in one corner with adjacent taller walls that were once quarters. The presidio sets beside San Saba River. Near the parking lot are rest rooms and a covered picnic area. I continued north on US 83 and between Eden and Paint Rock I drove through another wind farm. I noticed a marker for John S. Chisum in Concho County. He was not the founder of the Chisolm Trail, that was Jesse Chisolm. I found and photographed the last Mission marker in Texas for this trip. The marker for Mission San Clamente, a temporary two-room structure founded in 1684, is on Highway 83, ten miles north of Paint Rock and six and a half miles south of Ballinger, the actual location is debated. I might note that all the roadside markers I photographed are announced a mile in advance with a brown sign and another brown sign opposite each marker with an arrow. Not like the ones in California that give no warning. In Runners County, I noticed a marker for Maverick. I watched wind turbines slowly turning in the fog, the ends of the blades vanishing into the fog at the top of the rotation. It started raining again and continued until I reached my hotel. I joined Interstate 20 for six miles and it took twenty minutes because of construction. Finally I was going north on US 84 the rest of the way to Lubbock. The last forty miles before Lubbock were lined with oil pumps and wind turbines. I finally reached by hotel about 5:30. Day Nine: I got ready, ate, and departed a little after 7:00 AM. I got gas in Littlefield and continued. I crossed into New Mexico about 9:00 AM in the towns of Farwell and Texico that blended together such that I almost missed the New Mexico sign. A note on speed limits in Texas. Whoever sets speed limits understands that Texas is big. A road that would be 65 MPH in California, is 75 MPH in Texas. A road that would be 70 MPH in California is 75 or 80 MPH in Texas. To be honest, when the speed limit was 80 MPH, I set the cruise control to 78. But I crossed into New Mexico and dropped back to 65. I continued west on US 60/84 for almost two hundred miles, at least I gained an hour when I crossed back into Mountain time. It took fifteen minutes to pass a train. I passed the grave of Billy the Kid, but expected to get in so late tonight, I didn't stop. I saw a train of wind turbine blades in De Baca County. The west is full of renewable energy. A long straight road through nothing, 55 MPH. I stopped at the Visitor Center for Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument where I got straightened out. There are three Missions in the area and I started out for the first one. It took a half hour to reach Gran Quivira in Socorro County. A loop takes visitors to the ruins of the church and then around the ruins of the convento and other spaces. To the right are the ruins of an older church. I wandered the site of this 1625 Mission for a half hour and pressed on to the next Mission. This was the first Mission I had seen in New Mexico. Once back in town, the next Mission was half as far on the other side. Like the first Mission, Quarai, established in 1626, is a collection of stone ruins. I wandered about a half hour and back to town. The third Mission is three-quarters of a mile off the highway a few miles south. Like the first two Missions, San Gregorio de Abo, 1629, is also a collection of stone ruins and like the first two sites, I wandered a half hour. A half hour later (and a quick stop at Walking Sands Rest Area), I was standing in front of my fourth New Mexico Mission, San Miguel in Secorro, c1627. The church was quiet and locked, so I took a few photographs and moved on. I got gas before hopping into the highway and traveled north. After two attempts and a lot of effort to find Mission San Agustin de Islata, 1613, I was about to start photographing the Mission when I noticed an intimidating sign saying all electronic and recording devices would be confiscated. Now, I am disappointed with my Nikon, but I wasn't interested in having it taken from me by force and I felt very unwelcome, so I took a look from outside the gate and left as quickly as I could. My last Mission for the day was San Felipe de Neri Church which was built in 1793 to replace the original 1706 Mission church. The church is on the Plaza across the street from a gazebo beside which a Mariachi band was playing. It was getting a little late by the time I found my hotel and settled in. Day Ten: I got ready, ate, and left. I departed at7:10 AM and headed west on Interstate 40. I stopped for gas just before Grant and exited at Highway 53. About a half hour later I arrived at Ice Cave and Volcano. The historic Trading Post is a short distance off the highway. I paid my fee and started the loop up to the breach in the side of the volcano. Along the way are numbered spots which the guide interpreted. When a crack opened in the side of the volcano, lava flowed down and the loop continues beside the lava flow to the Ice Cave, which is the remnant of a lava tube. Because of its sheltered location, the ice never melts. I continued the loop and moved on. I crossed the Continental Divide a few minutes later. A half hour more and I arrived in Zuni and I'm glad that I stopped at the Visitor Center. Not only did I get good information, but like Islata the day before, photography of cultural activities is prohibited. However, I acquired a permit and an archaeologist took me to the Mission where I was allowed to photograph the building, Our Lady of Guadalpe,1631, which was all I really wanted to see. He provided a lot of interesting information. Once back in my own car, I stopped at the museum for a few minutes where I learned more. Zuni is a Spanish name, they call themselves pronounced ah-shee-wee. Then I continued. I crossed into Arizona a little before 1:00. AZ-61 was bouncier than MN-53. I stopped at the Visitor Center North at Petrified Forest National Park. My idea was to cover the northern half that I missed two years earlier, but the line to enter the park was too long so I opted to continue west and have more time at Grand Canyon. I got gas in Flagstaff and drove north on Highway 89. I wanted to enter the park from the east to see stops I missed last time. I arrived at Grand Canyon a little before 5:00 PM. First I went to the Tower View for which the line was too long last time. This time they had already sold the last ticket for the day. I continued west stopping at most of points of interest and turnouts. I arrived at Bright Angel Lodge and checked in. My room was close, in another building, and I tried to bring things in before it got dark. I also took a few photographs of the canyon but it was getting dark. I walked a small section of the Bright Angel Trail to get a preview for tomorrow since it was my main reason for coming. I finished unloading in the dark, ate dinner (first time in a restaurant for this trip), and unpacked. Day Eleven: I slept well and got ready. The only reason for this stop was to do a hike that I've been planning for about fifteen years. The first time I reserved two nights, planning to do the hike that full middle day. My wife canceled the first night and there wasn't time. A year and a half ago, we went at Christmas and the trail was covered with ice and was unsafe. Finally, I was walking down the Bright Angel Trail. Doing the entire trail takes several days, but I just wanted to do the first half mile. It turns out, the trail was under repair and only the first half mile was open. It took about half hour to walk down and an hour to walk back, taking photographs all the way. From the top you can see a short tunnel which I reached easily. Then I saw a sign at a point in the distance, so I went that far. From there I could see the closed area, so I walked that far. I talked with a ranger who was coming back up and then I turned and climbed out. It was my first time looking up at the canyon wall. I returned to my room and rested and organized, and dealt with yet another problem with my Nikon. I left for the Red Bus to see some points west. I took the Red Bus to Powell Point and photographed more scenery. There is a monument to Powell and you can see remnants of a uranium mine. From here I walked a short distance to Hopi Point for more scenery, then waited for the next bus. I waited a half hour for the shuttle bus as two tour busses stopped. Finally someone told me the shuttle stops at a different place. I ran and barely caught the bus as it pulled out, and spent the next five minutes trying to catch my breath. I only got off the bus one more time after that. The bus stops at Hermit's Rest for about ten minutes so I got off for five minutes, then road the bus back. I rested and worked on a computer class the rest of the day. Day Twelve: Home I had almost reached Interstate 40 by sunrise. I crossed into California about 8:30 and got gas in Needles. Both Rest Areas were closed. I noted the highway between Newberry Springs and Barstow was lined with wild flowers. I arrived home about 1:30 PM and was swarmed by dogs and cats who missed me. When I arrive home, I still had one and a half disks of the audiobook of Grapes of Wrath. I'll have to wait for the next trip to see what happens to the Joad Family. As I listened to this audiobook, I often compared myself to the characters in the book. I was going home to California and no one met me at the border to stop me. I had four good tires, a room every night, snacks, and my car went over four hundred miles on a tank of gas. The only reason why it took me five days to drive home from Texas was because I stopped at dozens of points of interest. I met some nice people from Oklahoma City, Fresno, Houston, and from just five miles from my home. I drove 4,573 miles and got over 28 miles to the gallon. Well there will be an eclipse in August 2044 in Montana and North Dakota, I can't wait. |
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